Sport Climbing Combined Olympics: Everything You Need to Know

The sport climbing combined Olympics format has taken the global stage by storm. First introduced in the Tokyo 2020 Olympics, this adrenaline-pumping event has captured the attention of audiences worldwide. Combining three very different disciplines—speed climbing, bouldering, and lead climbing—the format tests the full range of a climber’s skills.

In this detailed guide, we’ll break down what sport climbing combined Olympics is all about, how it evolved, what the current format looks like, who the top athletes are, and what to expect in future Olympic Games. Whether you’re a climbing enthusiast or a curious sports fan, this article will give you a comprehensive understanding of this fascinating Olympic event.

What Is Sport Climbing?

Sport climbing is a competitive form of rock climbing performed on artificial walls. Unlike traditional outdoor climbing, which relies on natural formations, sport climbing uses specially designed holds to simulate a variety of terrain challenges.

There are three main disciplines in sport climbing:

• Speed Climbing: Climbers race against each other on a standardized 15-meter wall. The goal is simple: reach the top as fast as possible.

• Bouldering: Athletes solve short but complex climbing problems without ropes on walls typically 4 meters high. Creativity and problem-solving are key.

• Lead Climbing: Climbers aim to reach the highest point possible on a wall over 15 meters tall within a specific time limit, using a rope for safety.

Each of these disciplines tests a different aspect of a climber’s abilities: explosive power, technique, and endurance.

The Birth of Sport Climbing in the Olympics

The journey of sport climbing into the Olympic Games was long and hard-earned. The sport made its Olympic debut in Tokyo 2020, after years of lobbying by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC). However, due to limited medal slots, all three climbing disciplines were combined into a single medal event—hence the creation of the sport climbing combined Olympics format.

This format drew both praise and criticism. Fans loved seeing climbers tackle all three disciplines, while athletes and insiders pointed out that it was difficult to crown a true “best climber” based on a combined score. Nevertheless, the event brought unprecedented attention to the sport.

The Sport Climbing Combined Olympics Format Explained

The Original Format – Tokyo 2020

In Tokyo 2020, the sport climbing combined Olympics format required athletes to compete in all three disciplines: speed, bouldering, and lead. The final score was determined by multiplying the rankings from each event. The athlete with the lowest product of rankings won.

For example:

• 2nd in Speed

• 3rd in Bouldering

• 1st in Lead
  Final Score = 2 × 3 × 1 = 6

This system rewarded all-around ability but also meant that a poor performance in one discipline could significantly hurt an athlete’s chances.

Format Changes in Paris 2024

In response to feedback, the Paris 2024 Olympics have adjusted the format:

• Speed Climbing will now be a separate medal event.

• Bouldering and Lead Climbing will be combined into one event.

This change better reflects the nature of the disciplines and is considered more balanced and fair. It allows speed specialists to shine independently while still recognizing the synergy between bouldering and lead skills.

Key Differences Between the Disciplines

Speed Climbing

• A race against the clock and your opponent.

• Uses a standardized wall route (always the same).

• Emphasizes agility, reaction time, and explosive strength.

Bouldering

• Requires solving multiple short problems (“boulders”) on a 4-meter wall.

• No ropes involved.

• Focuses on balance, technique, creativity, and power.

• Time-limited rounds.

Lead Climbing

• A longer, more sustained climb with a rope.

• Climbers aim to go as high as possible before falling or running out of time.

• Prioritizes endurance, efficiency, and mental strength.

In the combined format, excelling in all three disciplines is essential, which is what makes the sport climbing combined Olympics such a thrilling event to watch.

Iconic Moments from the Sport Climbing Combined Olympics

Tokyo 2020 Highlights

• Alberto Ginés López of Spain shocked the world by winning gold in the men’s event, proving that consistent performance can outperform specialization.

• Janja Garnbret from Slovenia dominated the women’s field, showing exceptional prowess in bouldering and lead.

These moments were crucial in legitimizing climbing as an Olympic sport and brought many new fans into the community.

Top Athletes to Watch

Janja Garnbret

• One of the most decorated female climbers in history.

• Known for her near-invincible bouldering technique and graceful lead climbs.

• Gold medalist in Tokyo 2020 and favorite in Paris 2024.

Adam Ondra

• Considered one of the best all-around climbers ever.

• Although he didn’t medal in Tokyo, Ondra is a fan favorite with immense experience and charisma.

Miho Nonaka and Akiyo Noguchi

• Two Japanese climbers who have inspired a generation.

• Both performed strongly in Tokyo and have solid bouldering backgrounds.

Tomoa Narasaki

• Famous for his explosive style and dynamic movement.

• An athlete who shines particularly in speed and bouldering.

Training for the Sport Climbing Combined Olympics

The combined format demands a training regimen like no other. Athletes must divide their focus among three vastly different skill sets:

1. Explosive training for speed climbing (e.g., plyometrics, sprint drills).

2. Technical bouldering sessions to improve problem-solving skills and core strength.

3. Endurance workouts for lead climbing, involving long sessions on vertical and overhanging walls.

It’s a physically and mentally demanding journey, requiring constant adaptation and injury management.

Why Is Sport Climbing Combined Olympics So Popular?

There are several reasons why this format has won the hearts of Olympic viewers:

• Visually captivating: Each discipline is fast-paced and exciting to watch.

• High drama: The multiplication scoring system can lead to unexpected upsets.

• Global reach: Climbing is a universal activity with passionate communities across all continents.

• Accessibility: The sport encourages people of all ages to try climbing at local gyms and bouldering centers.

The sport climbing combined Olympics has added a refreshing layer of diversity to the Olympic Games, aligning with the modern push for more youth-centric and engaging sports.

Future of Sport Climbing in the Olympics

With the refined format debuting at Paris 2024, the future of sport climbing at the Olympics looks bright. There’s already buzz about expanding the number of events and possibly separating all three disciplines permanently, especially if viewership and participation continue to rise.

There’s also hope that new climbing stars will emerge from countries that are still developing their climbing programs, making it a more globally inclusive sport.

How to Watch and Get Involved

If you’re inspired to watch or participate in climbing, here’s how:

• Olympics Broadcasts: NBC, Eurosport, and other major broadcasters cover the events.

• Streaming Platforms: Olympic YouTube channels often share event highlights.

• Indoor Gyms: Most urban areas now have climbing gyms offering beginner lessons.

• Competitions: Follow IFSC World Cups and Championships to see top climbers in action outside the Olympics.

Engaging with local communities or even trying it out yourself is a great way to experience what makes the sport climbing combined Olympics so special.

Conclusion: A New Era for Olympic Sports

The sport climbing combined Olympics has opened a new chapter in the evolution of competitive sports. Combining speed, power, technique, and strategy into one intense event, it challenges athletes in ways no other Olympic sport does. With the adjustments being made in Paris 2024 and continued global interest, sport climbing is on a trajectory of growth, innovation, and inspiration.

Whether you’re an experienced climber or just a curious observer, there’s no denying the excitement, drama, and beauty that this Olympic discipline brings. Keep your eyes on the wall—because this sport is only going up.